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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc |
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#1
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What is what?
I'm starting with all the appologies in the world for the lame question I'll ask - which clicker does what?
Here are pictures of my suspension (09 EC300): Pic 1 - Front Top Pic 2 - Front Bottom Pic 1 - Rear Top Pic 2 - Rear Bottom The explanations in the User's Manual get me confused, plus the pictures are for Marzochi (I believe) and mine is Sachs. I know all suspensions are similar, but this is the first time I actually fiddle with one. I read a lot but still am quite confused what is what and how it influences the operation of the suspension. I refer to the clickers. Rear spring preload, for example, is pretty straight forward and "common sense". |
#2
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Just remember... Write down your current settings for a baseline. Count the number of clicks until the screws/adjusters are fully seated (inward). This will establish the "number of clicks" to return to your baseline setting. Most people refer to the settings as "number of clicks out from fully seated". Where fully seated would provide the maximum damping setting (slowest rate of rebound/compression motion).
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Matt Current: 2009 Yamaha FZ1 Previous: 2001 GasGas TXT280, 2001 GasGas XC250, 2004 KTM 200EXC, 2007 GasGas EC250, 2007 Husqvarna SM610, 2008 Husqvarna WB165 |
#3
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This is excellent, any chance it can be pinned?
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2009 EC300 Racing |
#4
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This is excellent, any chance it can be pinned?
PS: Krasi - Wash yer scoot!!
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2009 EC300 Racing |
#5
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Thank you very much, Matt.
Let me elaborate a little more, if I may, just to confirm to myself I got it right. So, the front bottom clicker (Pic 2) determines how fast/easy/"softly" the fork compresses, i.e. goes up, right? The "fully seated" position is the hardest setting, i.e. the fork is slower/more difficult/"harder" to compress? The front top clicker (Pic 1) does the same, but for the extension movement of the fork, correct? And there is no spring preload for the front springs (at least not on my forks)? The same applies for the rear shosk too I suppose, but I'll need some help with the slow and fast compression. P.S. Dingo, believe it or not she is washed. I just forgot to "go down on her" and take care of the bottom side |
#6
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Yes you are understanding everything correctly and hopefully someone will explain the rear low/high speed better as well. The GG manual is an absolute joke and uses many outdated pictures and no clear info on suspension clicker setting or explanations of what they really do. They should be ashamed passing that thing off as an owners manual.
.....and I'm not gonna touch that last comment Why doesn't GG (Marzocchi/Sachs) provide nice rubber covers for the bottom of the forks to protect the damping adjuster from dirt and mud? Seems to be asking for trouble IMO.
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07 EC 300 (under 500 miles, selling soon) 97 KTM 250 EXC (sold) 2016 Trek Remedy 29er |
#7
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That's a good question. My old KTM had some plugs. My Husky and GasGas with Marzocchis (both of them) do not have plugs. So it is a Marzocchi vs. WP issue. Perhaps some WP plugs would fit our fork bottoms. I have not tried myself.
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Matt Current: 2009 Yamaha FZ1 Previous: 2001 GasGas TXT280, 2001 GasGas XC250, 2004 KTM 200EXC, 2007 GasGas EC250, 2007 Husqvarna SM610, 2008 Husqvarna WB165 |
#8
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Compression is when the distance between fender and wheel axle gets smaller/less. So, when riding the bike, this is when the wheel travels upward towards the fender or your bike is moving towards the ground (depends on your reference point). In any case, it is when you are squeezing the two ends of the suspension fork or shock together (i.e., compressing). If you continue to compress the fork or shock, you will at some point "bottom out" your suspension and the tire will rub the fender. The extension movement (also called rebound) is the opposite behavior. Quote:
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The low and high speed compression adjusters are slightly misleading. The high speed (larger adjuster nut) is not really "high" speed... but rather it controls motion in a "higher" low speed range or mid speed level. Actual high speed changes are really done by a suspension tuner who revalves the piston and staging of the shim discs. These two compression adjusters (low and high) are only changing the oil flow thru a bypass hole. So, when you turn the adjuster screw or nut fully seated, oil is being restricted from flowing thru this bypass hole. It now has to flow through the piston valving. Think of it as water faucet... when you turn the faucet handle closed/off, then the water stops flowing. For suspension, when you make the oil flow more slowly/more restricted... it makes the suspension motion slower and feels more firm. Conversely, if you back out these adjusters away from fully seated, then you are "opening" the water faucet. Your suspension now has oil flowing more freely/less restricted, so it makes the suspension motion faster and feel more soft. Well, this reply is getting a bit wordy now... sorry if I'm rambling. Just a final note... I mentioned the 2 compression adjusters are like low and "higher" low speed adjusters. The best way to remember these are the following: if you want to help control/adjust small suspension motions (like roots and rocks) you will focus on the low speed screw. If you want to help control/adjust larger suspension motions (like whoops and jumps) you will focus on the high speed screw/large knob. Also, a word of caution... adjusting the Rebound screw will also have some effect on the low speed "compression" motion. This may confuse you but the rebound adjuster controls oil flow thru the center of the shock rod (bypass hole). The center of the shock rod (bypass hole) is also active during compression motion. So, a rebound screw adjustment may also need to be combined with a low speed compression screw adjustment to counteract its effect. Sorry if this just confused everyone... but this is something to consider if you are making a rebound damping change... so only make small changes like 1-2 clicks of the rebound screw. Ride the bike over the same terrain, then make another minor adjustment, etc.. Hope this helps!
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Matt Current: 2009 Yamaha FZ1 Previous: 2001 GasGas TXT280, 2001 GasGas XC250, 2004 KTM 200EXC, 2007 GasGas EC250, 2007 Husqvarna SM610, 2008 Husqvarna WB165 |
#9
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A Few Minor Revisions
A couple points to add to Matt's description
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Steven Beane #275 PlusOnePerformance - Superior Service the World Over - Dearborn MI AMA District 14 (Michigan) Officer afterhourscycle.com Michigan's Beta and TM Race Headquarters |
#10
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hallo, i just whant to ask. What fork is in the picture? I have same forks, but no stiickers on it. I dont know what fork do I have. Sorry for my english. Filip |
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