07 sachs? rear shock packing/hard/no rebound?

[stainlesscycle]

Originally Posted by lonetree

Mannual???????????
Link???????
Where?????????

yeah, that's what i thought!


http://www.gasgasrider.org/Sachs_Rear_Husky_610.pdf

[GMP]

What oil did you use? I have to find the info sheet from Les it must be on there.

[stainlesscycle]

i just used 5w. it will work until i have a chance to send the shock out, or find a spare to run.

[GMP]

I just did mine today. Actually did it three times because I wasn't confident I got all the air out. In the end it was fine. Rather than hold the separator piston down manually while inserting the shaft, a better way seems to be installing the reservoir cap and pressurizing it slightly, one less hand needed. Then when you seat the seal head, release the pressure with the schrader. Next time it will go much faster and be less of a mess. I pressurized it with air temporarily and will do the nitrogen charge in work tomorrow. I used a stethoscope to listen for signs of air moving in the shock and all sounds good.

[stainlesscycle]

that's basically how i did it. i dropped it down to 1 or 2 psi when i put the seal head in, i knew i was pushing the seal head with more force than that. then i took it apart and checked it and redid it and measured depth. gotta redo it again next week anyways. it seemed fine today, but i'm still not 100% happy with it.

[GMP]

I could not get the piston depth in the steps from Les that I posted. Thats what got me worried about the air. I think that there may be different shocks/components with different specs as 68 - 70 mm wasn't even close. The seal head in my shock has a small bleed hole just under the oring. If you take your time you will see small amounts of air (micro bubbles) escape from this hole. When this stops your good to seat the seal head.

[GMP]

Well shock worked great today so I guess I got it right.

[n_green]

Originally Posted by Simmo737

If it still doesn't work, step cut the piston band and see if you can find an oring the same size as the one underneath, maybe one size thicker.

If you can't find one, a husky race tech kit will give you a new piston, band and oring for 150 from oem cycle, you will have to use their valving which I personally think is good.

You can also buy bladder kits, can't remember the place (they sell groovy water pump impellers too) which makes bleeding them way easier

Edit: checkpoint offroad for the bladder.

Is there a link for the Husky race tech kits? Trying to find it on OEM cycle and can't.

[n_green]

My shock has the fade issue. Initially I thought it was just in need of a service, hardly any gas at all in the reservoir, shock body full of air. After an oil change and re-gas it was good as gold. Until it got hot, then it kicked and jumped more then a bucking bronco. The rebound clickers do nothing at all when its hot, when it cools down they work almost as per normal. Reservoir is still at the same pressure as it was when I serviced it and it doesn't feel like there is any air in the shock body.
Two options, cheapest being step cut the piston band and install a new o-ring. Thats the preferred option at this stage as its quick and cheap.

All else fails I'll throw a gold valve kit in it.

My question is, this link says to use a 2.5mm stock o-ring, what is the ID/OD of the o-ring so I can order one prior to pulling the shock apart? 2011 EC300 with Sachs rear. I do have the ball check valve and will replace the ball with a smaller one as well.

Cheers.