2011 six days fork fixed (kinda)

[matt_tidball]

I just switched back to 7 wt fork oil from 5 wt to try that. What about just drilling holes in the stock spacers? wouldn't that work as well? why is the new spacer taller?

[GMP]

I saw that pic, its not what I'm looking for. I'm interested in seeing the cartridge spring seat in detail, and how it may differ from what has been used in the past without issue. I'll say it again, the spacer is not the problem. In fact, I'd like to see the fork completely apart, and see if the holes in the end of the lower tube(4 holes after the bushing land) are the same.

This is a pretty simple fork that has worked well in the past. It should not be a huge engineering feat to make it work, it should be obvious to anyone familiar with the fork once it is disassembled.

[rgranger]

Originally Posted by Robby45

That's my bike they are discussing on there. I wouldn't go so far as to say "it's fixed". Definently better, but still not right.

The fork soaks up small bumps and trail trash really well, but on large hits/square edges etc.. it'll break your wrists. Way, way too harsh.

I'm gimpy right now, so it's not high on my list to work on, but something will have to be done before the SETRA season gets in full swing.

When I got my '09 KTM 300, the same thing happened, I would ride Sat or Sun and my wrists would hurt though Thursday, this was after a big tuner had worked on them. I finally sent them off to Javier (Trail Tricks) and it made a major difference, like no pain! Not to mention how scary the bike was, I never knew witch way it was going to send me.

[rgranger]

Originally Posted by GMP

I saw that pic, its not what I'm looking for. I'm interested in seeing the cartridge spring seat in detail, and how it may differ from what has been used in the past without issue. I'll say it again, the spacer is not the problem. In fact, I'd like to see the fork completely apart, and see if the holes in the end of the lower tube(4 holes after the bushing land) are the same.

This is a pretty simple fork that has worked well in the past. It should not be a huge engineering feat to make it work, it should be obvious to anyone familiar with the fork once it is disassembled.

Glenn, when I got my bike from Hall's I had them send the forks Zokes 45's to Les. My paraphrasing here and 09 may not be correct, he said, "that in 09 GG/Zokes had figured out almost all the stuff that he had been doing to setup the forks and that they were really good right from the factory with minor spring adjustments. He took mine apart, I think one of the first 2011's, and he said that they had forgotten everything in the space of one year. He said that he wished that I had been able to ride the bike before sending him the forks to see just how bad they were!" Unfortunately, I have not been able to try the bike out in the forest but once and with the factory monster tire on it, it was stinkbug city and riding in 8" of sugar sand, was not a good combo.

[GMP]

Valving is one thing, but what is talked about here is something else that has NEVER existed in this fork before.

[Robby45]

I just sent a text to Phillip at SoPro suspention to see if he has any more pics of my fork apart. I try to post them up if he does.

[Robby45]

Here you go:

From Phillip: "I did extensive mods to the hydraulic system along with this mod. Look at the stock spring spacers, it covers the spring seat holes."

[GMP]

Thats a blurry pic of the modified part. I'd like to see the stock configuration so I can tell if its different. What does he mean by "extensive mods"? All it needs is valving. If I have time I'll call Les today and see if he has seen this problem and knows what it is.

[Robby45]

I think he is talking about machining those V's in the seat and also cutting grooves in the spacer to allow the oil to move. The stock setup was constricting the flow before valving even comes into effect. Sort of like old school orifice damping.

I agree, I think valving is the next step.

[matt_tidball]

Going back to 7 wt fork oil from 5 wt made all the differance. Now the front end stays planted and almost all the deflection is gone. Apperantly you just can't make 5 wt oil work in these forks. Which brings me to wonder if 10 wt oil would work even better? Has anyone tried 10 wt oil in the 45 Zoke?