48mm Marzocchi fork tools

[GMP]

I'm assuming the '12 clamps are the same with regard to bar position. I've run the foward position for years and do not want to go back to rear position just for easy clicker access. I have the same problem on my '07 with the 45s getting to the rebound adjusters. I'll shim the bar mounts up as needed.

[twowheels]

I'm not saying these will be the only tools I ever use, but they are the ones I'll be using on the trail



The spade will fit to the bottom of the fork compression adjuster screw and can be turned by gloved fingers - I will need to add the second 3mm spacer under the bar clamps to make it fit with Flexx bars and the forward mounting position.

The 3mm hex works for both top and bottom of the shock but I'll need to bring along a little pick to get the crud out of the rebound adjuster screw.

The plan is to pop these in an old film canister and keep them in the fanny pack - the best couple of ounces you can carry back there.

Watch this space for a purpose build PFP adjuster and fork rebound adjuster tool.

[GMP]

Thats nice! Just what I had in mind. I have some thin aluminum discs to use. Hex cap screw type adjusters for the shock are a bit of a dumb idea don't you think? A small plastic insert that stays in the hex well to block dirt would be good, I'll see what I can find. Until then a small patch of duct tape should work.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by GMP

Thats nice! Just what I had in mind. I have some thin aluminum discs to use. Hex cap screw type adjusters for the shock are a bit of a dumb idea don't you think? A small plastic insert that stays in the hex well to block dirt would be good, I'll see what I can find. Until then a small patch of duct tape should work.

I'm not sure the guys at Ohlins ever work on the shocks after they're mounted to the bikes. The big plastic rebound knob on the 2011s was almost impossible to get to, let alone turn, but may have worked well with the new linkage. Instead this ...

Somewhere there must be little plastic plugs for the 3mm hex, but even putting it on the side or rear of the shock body would likely have worked. A wrap of duct tape will do just fine but may trap moisture ...

I went with the hex stock because you can turn it with gloves on (something my round but knurled protos didn't do so well) and steel for durability - the screw spade is only 1mm thick.