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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #21  
Old 04-06-2009, 11:34 PM
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iancp5 iancp5 is offline
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Hmmm I'm convinced people are getting too keen to mess with shim stacks before they've exhausted setup the normal way first: springs, air gap & clickers. Maybe I'm insensitive! Messing with shim stacks strikes me as something that requires either a huge amount of time for experimenting or a lot of expertise. Especially when they seem able to work well as standard to me.

A few years ago I took a Gasser to a well known suspension specialist to have it serviced. I asked about valving. He suggested that the Gassers were good enough as standard that unless I was a pro he wouldn't bother and just spend some time getting it set right with clickers instead. I found him to be correct. He could've taken some more money off me.

If you'd just like to learn about suspension that's a different matter.


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  #22  
Old 04-07-2009, 01:29 PM
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nick790 nick790 is offline
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Of course your right, i'm not intending to get to involed with it, but if theres some common immprovments to be made, I'll do them. I dont have the time to go testing different thing, so at this point i'm just gatering information for possible things to try in the future.

As for the standard adjustments, I hav'nt tried everything, but the things I have tried did'nt have much or any effect. I can normaly make progress and find a setting fairly easily.
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  #23  
Old 04-07-2009, 02:32 PM
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The clickers seem to have little effect because they are also a free bleed circuit in paralell with the large free bleed on the stack. All this bleed works good in the technical trails/rocks at slow to medium speed, but won't help keep the bike up at higher speed.

It depends who your suspension guy is. If he can't improve it that means he doesn't know how. A good tuner like Les will explain what he does and why, and help you understand and set the bike up.
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  #24  
Old 04-07-2009, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMP View Post
The clickers seem to have little effect because they are also a free bleed circuit in paralell with the large free bleed on the stack. All this bleed works good in the technical trails/rocks at slow to medium speed, but won't help keep the bike up at higher speed.

It depends who your suspension guy is. If he can't improve it that means he doesn't know how. A good tuner like Les will explain what he does and why, and help you understand and set the bike up.
So would you recomend removing the bleed shim? and do you have to replace it?
What about adding rebound shims?
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