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Enduro Engine 4 stroke (including EFI & Exhaust) 4 stroke engine, EFI, and exhaust discussion |
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#21
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Now that's a seriously mangled sprag.
What model is your bike. That is an unusual sprag to have in there. I wonder if someone used that sprag as a replacement for the original one? Last edited by ricknaz; 04-19-2011 at 05:54 PM. |
#22
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Quote:
Tech info on sprag: SIAM RINGSPANN Freewheel with cage SF44/16K Part number: 3673044.001 Torque: 380 Nm Shaft diameter: 44mm External diameter: 62mm |
#23
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that's a strange i.d. for a sprag. i've googled extensively and don't see any aside from that one..
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07 ec300 was 00 xc200 now a 00 xc300. now parting out. 99 ec300 (now a pile of parts which are for sale) Stainless Cycle - Motorcycle Bolt Kits www.stainlesscycle.com |
#24
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That definitely looks to be cooked!
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06 Gas Gas FSE 450 USA 07 Gas Gas FSR 450 UK with motard and dirt wheels |
#25
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I fitted a LeoVince silencer to my gasser and it made a HUGE difference in kickstarting! Now I can kickstart my bike easily no matter if it's cold or hot
Still haven't got new sprag to my starter but it's okay because I can kick it It was pure pleasure to be able to ride the bike. Still must find and repair a oil leak and then it's time to get some mud flying Last edited by Embalmer; 04-23-2011 at 03:16 PM. |
#26
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Just incase anyone needs it Ringspann updated their part number, the new part number is 3673044.010.000000
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#27
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A bit late in relying to this but here goes......this will maybe help with slow cranking problems. My 450 cranked over very slowly when I bought her. I always blamed the starter motor so I eventually changed it out for a modified DRZ item. Motor span over slightly quicker but the problem was still there. I laid the bike down on its right hand side, removed the fly wheel/started gear casing and hit the starter button. Starter and the upper gear/cog were spinning as the should but everything below was sluggish!!!. I removed said cog and found there was a 17mm hex on the back. Stuck it in the vice and backed out the hex......this split the inner and outer gear. Inside the two is some friction material (a la clutch plate/brake pad). I can only assume this whole cog is a safety devise which allows the two cogs to spin independently should the motor kick back on start up thus preventing casing damage. I then cut a disc of thin cardboard (shoe box), placed it between the cogs and nipped them back up in the vice. Threw everything back together, pushed the started button and hey presto....the bike has started first push of the button since.
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Racist????.....Not me I'll race any one !!!! Last edited by mikethebike1127; 01-01-2017 at 07:40 AM. |
#28
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Quote:
I noticed that the front plate of the torque limiter that sits immediately behind the circlip was slightly concave around the circlip/washer, which was reducing the pressure on the friction plates. I removed the circlip and pulled the stack of plates off and noticed the other side was identical - the plate stack is symmetrical, and because the other side sits behind those concave washers it was in perfect condition. So I reassembled with the plate stack reversed, squashed it together in a vise with a couple bits of wood to protect it so I could fit the circlip, and now my bike starts beautifully. I did not need to shim it at all! Your post was very helpful in identifying the problem so thanks very much! |
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