Sachs Suspension aftermarket options??

[Synergy-Seals]

I understand and will agree. I believe the forks will turn out nice.
I really like the floating bushing in the bottoming cone...I thought of this years ago for thethe wp unitsand and it made sense. I think its even more plyable with the aluminum damper rod.
Speaking of the dp I will have a new coating added to it. I have not decide with to do yet but it will be fun and slick.

[Simmo737]

You've got one sale here at least, virtually every Australian bike and most European are the Sachs/ Sachs combo, everyone says the same thing, harsh in the mid stroke with unnerving deflection on square edges, but a weapon in the woops!

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by Simmo737

You've got one sale here at least, virtually every Australian bike and most European are the Sachs/ Sachs combo, everyone says the same thing, harsh in the mid stroke with unnerving deflection on square edges, but a weapon in the woops!

Simmo: There is a relatively simple mid-valve mod I developed that took out the mid-stroke harshness in both my 2010 and 2011 250s w Sachs forks. I'll send you the shims in the post if you can get the cartridges apart.

In the meantime, make sure you're sprung correctly - the 0.42s are soft for men of above average girth and/or speed.

[Synergy-Seals]

Originally Posted by twowheels

Simmo: There is a relatively simple mid-valve mod I developed that took out the mid-stroke harshness in both my 2010 and 2011 250s w Sachs forks. I'll send you the shims in the post if you can get the cartridges apart.

In the meantime, make sure you're sprung correctly - the 0.42s are soft for men of above average girth and/or speed.

Hmmmmm....what about me...lol
I am trying to learn these new forks as well. A little start up direction always helps.

Rob

[Simmo737]

Originally Posted by twowheels

Simmo: There is a relatively simple mid-valve mod I developed that took out the mid-stroke harshness in both my 2010 and 2011 250s w Sachs forks. I'll send you the shims in the post if you can get the cartridges apart.

In the meantime, make sure you're sprung correctly - the 0.42s are soft for men of above average girth and/or speed.

Wow, thanks I have got 4.6 and 5.6 on the shock to cater for my "comfortable" 90 kg (200lb), and have had a fiddle with the base valve to get what I can out of it, just still a little unnerving on anything off camber at pace which gets the shaft deep in its travel quickly. I should be able to crack open the cartridge, it appears to need to a tube wrench a little smaller than other i've worked on maybe with four points.

check your pms and thanks

[Simmo737]

Originally Posted by Synergy-Seals

Hmmmmm....what about me...lol
I am trying to learn these new forks as well. A little start up direction always helps.

Rob

Rob, I did this: http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10328

But if I get a fix for the Mid, and could get a 12/.1 7mm id shim, I would swap back the 14 I moved, replaced by the new 12/.1 and add back in a 23.1, maybe two, above the crossover. the bike at the moment has lost a bit of its excellent control at pace over woops, braking bumps, jumps etc but is much more compliant over square edges to a point. I think it would still benefit from a two stage stack for enduro/trail in rocks and roots though....but i'm no expert, just a fiddler.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by Simmo737

Rob, I did this: http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10328

But if I get a fix for the Mid, and could get a 12/.1 7mm id shim, I would swap back the 14 I moved, replaced by the new 12/.1 and add back in a 23.1, maybe two, above the crossover. the bike at the moment has lost a bit of its excellent control at pace over woops, braking bumps, jumps etc but is much more compliant over square edges to a point. I think it would still benefit from a two stage stack for enduro/trail in rocks and roots though....but i'm no expert, just a fiddler.

I've got the 12.1 7mm ID that you're looking for. Check your pm for how we'll do the MV mod remotely.

[Synergy-Seals]

I did an interesting mod that worked out pretty well.
I flipped one base valve and added an oring to the cbore then added 4-24x.09, 4-22x.09, 1-18x.09, 1-14x.15,1-16x.09, 1-12x.09, 1-10x.15.

This created more flow thru the bv but controlled the ls dampening better and helped with longer hs stroke absorption.

My mv is a .25 check plate with a 1.35 float. This seems a little too much but I will play with it some.

I also opened up the bottoming cone thru hole to 14.25mm verses the 13.75. I also open the nylon capture disk id to 14.25mm. Verses the 13.75.

This helped big time with the binding that was going on.

I also added our newer material seals on The forks. They feel buttery smooth.

Rob

[Simmo737]

Hey Rob

can you explain a little more extensively what you did with the o ring, and do you think with time the bottoming cone etc that you increased the i d of are a wearing part (to a point) that may be the reason that these forks seem to loosen up?, I'm suspecting not due to teflon being involved.

Cheers

[Synergy-Seals]

Originally Posted by Simmo737

Hey Rob

can you explain a little more extensively what you did with the o ring, and do you think with time the bottoming cone etc that you increased the i d of are a wearing part (to a point) that may be the reason that these forks seem to loosen up?, I'm suspecting not due to teflon being involved.

Cheers

Simmo. The bottoming cone itself is not wearable. Component. The floating bushing inside can be. But the binding issue is from both the nylon holding plate small I.d. and the bottoming cone small I.d.
The forks will not break in....if they do then the damper rod will have suffered.

Rob