Diving into the Sachs 48mm forks - wish me luck?

[n_green]

To completely disassemble the damper tube I'm guessing you undo this as well?



It's very tight and until I know if I should definitely remove it I won't.

Also discovered that one of my cartridges is 'sticky' and the damper tube binds in the cartridge cap during the last inch of travel. The other cart doesn't do this and neither do the two spares I got from Simmo.

Synergy is this the nylon bushing you were talking about that has too small an ID and causes binding? (located on the underside of the cartridge cap. Pain in the butt to remove, tiny little cir clip in a groove in the cap itself, I couldn't get hold of it so gave up for now. Is there anything other then the nylon/plastic bush in that cap?



I haven't even looked at it yet but between the spring guide and cartridge cap there is a small round bush that sits in a recess on top of the cartridge. What is this? Should I leave it alone?

Thanks again for any info.

[n_green]

Also, what's the best way of tightening the base valve?

The cartridge tool I had made will work but I have to remove the spring guide to fit it, does putting the fork back together and compressing it upside down (reverse of undoing the base valve) work?

What torque do I tighten it to?

[Jakobi]

I'm no genuis here, but I'd assume that one side of the stack will control the compression, and the other side, as the fluid returns through the valve will be your rebound control. Probably more noticable on your base valve. I'm sure someone more knowledgable will guide you though..

Good luck with those internal snap rings. They were the most challenging part of servicing the shock! Theres a definite 'knack' to it.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by n_green

Also, what's the best way of tightening the base valve?

The cartridge tool I had made will work but I have to remove the spring guide to fit it, does putting the fork back together and compressing it upside down (reverse of undoing the base valve) work?

What torque do I tighten it to?

Sure does work. No idea re torque values.

[n_green]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I'm no genuis here, but I'd assume that one side of the stack will control the compression, and the other side, as the fluid returns through the valve will be your rebound control. Probably more noticable on your base valve. I'm sure someone more knowledgable will guide you though..

Good luck with those internal snap rings. They were the most challenging part of servicing the shock! Theres a definite 'knack' to it.

I've only just started the suspension bible so I'm sure all will be revealed in the next 100 pages or so.

I gave up on the snap rings because I was only armed with a small flat blade screwdriver. Trip to a tool shop tomorrow to buy a pick and I'll take them on again

[n_green]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Sure does work. No idea re torque values.

What did you do it up with? Cordless impact driver same as used to undo it? That makes me a little nervous....

[Jakobi]

I never put the Sachs back in the legs.

I went to Ohlins gold which uses an internal cup stop and the base plug. The TTX which is basically a gas strut, then threads back through the base plug the other way. It technically doesn't have a base valve stack, so I had to use an impact to rattle that in until I could get it to bite enough to get a torque wrench on it. As per Ohlins documentation.

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by n_green

Removed the rod from the cartridge. Pulled the shim stack (this is the mid-valve correct?)



Shim stack is:

seat spring,
25 x .2 (2)
Piston
23 x .1 (2)
20 x .1
18 x .1
16 x .1
12 x .15
10 x .3
13 x 2.15 (2)
Nut

This may be a dumb question, is this the mid valve stack? Where is the rebound stack?

Nope. That's a rebound stack with a check-plate ilo a midvalve on the other side.

While your tool appears to have let you into the cartridge, it fails to function when reassembling the base valve. You can rattle-gun it if you want, but those soft aluminum base valves didn't get any stiffer sitting on your bench.

[GMP]

I have a 3/8" drive air tool that is pretty tame for use on a base valve with a good socket. Don't go at it with good 1/2" gun.

[n_green]

Originally Posted by twowheels

Nope. That's a rebound stack with a check-plate ilo a midvalve on the other side.

While your tool appears to have let you into the cartridge, it fails to function when reassembling the base valve. You can rattle-gun it if you want, but those soft aluminum base valves didn't get any stiffer sitting on your bench.

Originally Posted by GMP

I have a 3/8" drive air tool that is pretty tame for use on a base valve with a good socket. Don't go at it with good 1/2" gun.

Thats the reason the rattle gun method makes me nervous, even though its only an 18v cordless it doesn't have torque settings and I have no idea how tight it would go.

I'll have to make up a tool from smaller OD PVC pipe I guess. Is there a torque value to do this base valve up or is it simply 'tight'?

Twowheels I believe you had a fix for the mid-valve, can I ask what that was?