05-06 Marzocci valve specs

[GMP]

In the fork, what did you do about all the bleed in the rebound piston/stack/checkplate? Any changes here or just the high speed stack? I would think the bleed shim under the checkplate would really screw up the HS rebound. Thats how the WPs feel when the checkplate/midvalve shims cup/crack and leak.

[pobit]

I removed the bleed shim on the rebound stack, doubled up the face shim and added more high speed. For the mid valve, I tried more float to help on square edges but it makes the fork ride lower so I went back to the stock set up and went to a lighter base valve stack. For the base valve, I have a simple 1 stage stack. I am still playing with oil height vs valving in the search to get compliance on roots and rocks and still be able to take big hits without bottoming too hard. Seems like 110-120mm oil height is the best compromise so far. For those of you with 05 valving, I think the greatest gain would be to simply increase the rebound dampening stack and leave the rest alone. Dave

[GMP]

What was the stock MV/checkplate float? You left the MV bleed shim in? I think your 100% correct in that the bigger hit harshness is the rebound. Its just a lot of feedback, but with no real stinging spike like excessive HS compression would cause. Interesting. I don't have time to experiment myself now, maybe later.

[pobit]

It's been a few weeks since my last post and we are now in the middle of racing season so we get to test under racing conditions. Here is what I have found so far: In my last post I reported that I thought the spike in the fork was caused by the rebound. After testing several different rebound stacks and going stiffer with each new stack, I can say this is indeed true. Here is the stack we are currently running compared to the stock 06 rebound stack:
stock:
21x10
19x10
17x10
15x10

currant stack:
21x10
21x10
19x10
19x10
18x10
17x10
15x10

We also tried changing the float on the check plate to make the fork more supple on roots and square edges. More float does help but makes the fork dive under braking. Less float, and the forks gets harsh on square edges. For our application, 1.25mm of float was the best compromise between sharp edge compliance and fork dive. The next thing we tried was to convert the check plate to a mid valve to see if we could get an improvement over the check plate by getting the fork to stay higher in the stroke and still take a fast hit on sharp edges. For my 185 pound weight with .42 springs and the oil level at 130mm, 1 mm of float with a fairly soft stack gets the bike to settle enough in the turns to get a good bite on the tire and still take a fast hit without being too harsh. I tried float heights from .5mm to 2mm. If your going to convert to a mid valve you need to install a bushing on the post to act as a pivot. I used a chain roller off a Regina chain and ground it to length. The mid valve does hold the bike up higher than a check plate and because of the shims, is a little softer on a square edge. In a nut shell, the mid valve works better for faster more open riding where you want to hold the front end up. The check plate works better at slower, tighter stuff and rock piles where compliance is more important than stability.
One other thing I have noticed is the oil fouls fast. After 2 races it comes out very dirty. It has the same look tranny oil does when you use aluminum clutch plates. The upper tube looks like new so it must be caused by either the aluminum damper rod or the piston ring wearing on the inside of the cartridge. Has anyone tried using a plastic ring like the WP forks use? Dave

[KTMLew]

Originally Posted by pobit

One other thing I have noticed is the oil fouls fast. After 2 races it comes out very dirty. It has the same look as tranny oil does when you use aluminum clutch plates. The upper tube looks like new so it must be caused by either the aluminum damper rod or the piston ring wearing on the inside of the cartridge. Has anyone tried using a plastic ring like the WP forks use? Dave

Terry Hay!

[Treesmacker]

Pobit,
Thanks for the help setting up my fork, it worked a lot better!
Bob

[ramcclure200]

pobit
Member Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: St. Paul Minnesota
Posts: 44

05-06 Marzocci valve specs

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I happen to have two sets of forks appart today. An 05 DE200 and a 06 DE300. I found the Base valving is quite differant between the two years. The valves themselves are differant also as the 05 uses a 1mm bleed hole in the side of the port and the 06 uses a 2mm hole. Other notable differances is the 06 uses a bleed shim on the face with a 22mm shim that covers the ports. The 05 does not use a bleed shim but uses a smaller 21mm shim that does not cover the ports completely allowing some bleed. The cartridge, damper rod, bottoming cone and rebound valving is the same on both years. Only the base valves differ. Here are some pictures showing the differant shim stacks and differant size bleed hole in the base valves. Anyone have any imput on why the changes? Dave

Thanks for the post letting us know about this thread.
I just had my 04 DE200 forks apart and checked the shims
and compared to the 05 DE200, a little different, any clues as to what
the characteristics of the two years should be?

[pobit]

The 05 shim stack is slightly stiffer. Dave

[bergerhag]

Has anyone noted any difference on the base valve plug itself?

According to parts lists it should be the same bottom plug in the ec300 '06 as in my fse450 '05.

Calculating the total stack thickness of the '06 stack earlier in this thread adds up to 1.85 mm. My current stack on my FSE is now 1.35 mm, and there is absolutely no more room for another half a miliimeter of shims (but I sure could use some)

Is there any special tricks or additional parts to line up some more shims, or are the parts lists just wrong?

[Klausen]

Here you got the original Base valving stack for a 06 EC 125/200
compression braking

11x20
22x10
11x20
19x10
17x10
11x10
16x10
15x10
15x15
14x15
13x15
13x15
12x15


#Pobit
Thanks for you tremendous test work.
Do you anything change on your 06 EC 300 Base valving stack
or is this same original like Reply #13
I see that you putting a radius on the tubes - is this recommendable.