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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #1  
Old 02-18-2007, 09:27 PM
KTMLew KTMLew is offline
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Pull the bleed shim and first crossover.
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  #2  
Old 02-19-2007, 01:49 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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I am sooo happy to see KTMLew in this forum! Welcome! Thanks to this guy I have a great Ohlins fork... (and it wasn't at all great before...)
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  #3  
Old 02-20-2007, 03:18 PM
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pobit pobit is offline
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Putting a radius on the tubes to allow the upper bushing to float to prevent binding and prevent wearing the hard coating off the inside of the tubes was suggested by Terry Hay. Here is a picture of the tubes after I ground them. Not as pretty as turning them in a lathe but still gets the job done. Dave
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  #4  
Old 02-20-2007, 10:11 PM
KTMLew KTMLew is offline
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It's amzing they STILL haven't fixed the bushing land?
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Old 02-28-2007, 08:30 AM
pro250 pro250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pobit View Post
Putting a radius on the tubes to allow the upper bushing to float to prevent binding and prevent wearing the hard coating off the inside of the tubes was suggested by Terry Hay.
Dave, Terry also recommended it to mine marzocchies '99, as per the kayaba example. I never saw a kayaba inside, so i never really understood what Terry meant, but now seeing yr pictures i get it. You leave the middle part intact, and only bevel the sides to give room for the bushing to flex a little.

You felt it was worth the effort?
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Old 02-28-2007, 03:26 PM
KTMLew KTMLew is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pro250 View Post
Dave, Terry also recommended it to mine marzocchies '99, as per the kayaba example. I never saw a kayaba inside, so i never really understood what Terry meant, but now seeing yr pictures i get it. You leave the middle part intact, and only bevel the sides to give room for the bushing to flex a little.

You felt it was worth the effort?
The only set of these i've had apart were the Cannondale version, so somewhere around a 2001/2003 model? The upper bushing was jammed into place when installed on the tube. On every other fork i've ever seen you can turn the bushing on the tube with very little effort. On these it was stuck solid. The bushing and land were basically the same exact width. No clearance for the bushing to move.

Just measured a 89 RM 46mm fork tube as it was handy.

Bushing width measures 19.79mm--Bushing land 20.09 = clearance of .30mm or .012" this allows the bushing to float some and not get bound up.

Land dia at center 44.90. Center area is 16.59mm wide--At edges dia is 44.69= .31mm/.012" of clearance for the bushing to rock on the tube. Reduced dia area is about 1.50mm wide per side.

I can take pictures if it will help anyone.
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  #7  
Old 03-01-2007, 02:49 AM
pro250 pro250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTMLew View Post
I can take pictures if it will help anyone.
Very nice elaborations on this subject, Lew. Now i finally see what Terry meant with the upper bushing problem.
Although i can see the picture now I surely like to see some pictures. I feel that more people wld appreciate that.

Dave, when do you plan on yr test ride? Hopefully soon?!
Ohh, and how did you find out about the bind up. Riding with a ty-strap around the fork and hitting that brick several times?
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Old 03-03-2007, 01:20 PM
pro250 pro250 is offline
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Dave, again... how wld i investigate binding with my marzocchies? Is it something you learn by experience or is there a trick that can address binding?
I am very light on mine compressions valving, midvalve aswell bottomvalve, but still i feel some spike on 2" roots.
Is this reshaping of the land of the bushes helping me in this situation?

I once ridden this showa Honda fork... i never felt any spike.....
This is what i like to accomplish with mine marzochies
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  #9  
Old 03-08-2007, 02:39 PM
KTMLew KTMLew is offline
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http://216.165.194.66/ktmtalk/photog.../000_0767r.jpg
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  #10  
Old 02-28-2007, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pro250 View Post
Dave, Terry also recommended it to mine marzocchies '99, as per the kayaba example. I never saw a kayaba inside, so i never really understood what Terry meant, but now seeing yr pictures i get it. You leave the middle part intact, and only bevel the sides to give room for the bushing to flex a little.

You felt it was worth the effort?
I already had the forks apart to replace the seals so it wasn't much effort to grind the tubes with a Dremel. I did two sets of forks, both with 1 year of riding time and the coating on the upper tubes looked like new on both forks. I have noticed the forks bind under a load and hopefully this will solve some of that. Dave
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